Eastern Promises 5: Worshiping at the Altar of the Master in Hong Kong
McDonalds in Hong Kong, multiple Locations
My brother and I are great fans of whimsical overstatements when it comes to food items. The hallmark example of this is Iron Chef’s absurd exaltation of the most mundane food item. For instance, I am a lifetime fan of Hiroyuki Sakai, the “Delacroix of French cuisine.”
So when I ran across McDonald’s Shogun Burger, with its ad campaign “The Master Returns,” you know damn well I had to give it a whirl.
“What did you miss most? The tender pork patty, dripping with Teriyaki sauce? Or the American Grade-A egg, crunchy lettuce, and creamy lemon mayo? We missed it all, so we brought it back. Enjoy.”
Simply put, it’s better in description than execution. All of the individual elements were relatively well conceived. I enjoyed the pork patty and its sweet teriyaki sauce. The idea of playing this sweet sauce against a lemon-mayo is a good idea, but in effect it was really just sauce on sauce with no separation. Moreover, the whole thing was really just one texture – soft bun, soft egg, soft patty, two sauces. The lettuce was well beyond its prime and didn’t provide the covenanted-for crunch. I was disappointed.
I should also note at this point that I’ve been very impressed with the eggs so far here in Hong Kong. They’ve tasted very fresh and have sported the deep orange yolks I equate with healthy chickens. This has been the case even at the diviest diners. This American grade-A egg however was bland and pale-yolked. The whole American thing is also confusing. Do they import the eggs from the US? That would seem way too far when China is right here. Or do they use the American grading system to grade Asian eggs? I suppose that makes more sense.
Finally, I must note that I paid an extra $5 HKD to make my fries into shake fries, which means I got a bag and a seasoning packet full of seaweed bits and other seasonings to flavor the fries. This was a lot of fun (I felt a bit like a tool being the only visibly white dude in the place, and shaking my fries to boot) and I liked the salty seaweed flavor it resulted in. The hitch is that the packet was quite clumpy and thus the seasoning was uneven.
Overall the meal came to $35 HKD which is about $5 US, and so it’s hard to complain that much. That said, the Big Mac and Filet-o-Fish meals here are both $21 HK, which is about $3 US, so if I do find myself and the Ds again, it’ll probably be for that.